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Even with the extra few hundred of the surround tiles and backerboard, it is well within the range of what a standard floor can support. Sara December 24, , am. Enjoy your vacation. I look forward to another year of thought provoking and helpful posts on FI in Kendall Frederick December 27, , pm. Eerily timely post; we are buying a house built in and when we did the home inspection today, I found a crazy quilt of leaking cast iron, PVC and copper piping under the house. Any tips on joining a new PVC drain system to the old cast iron?
Using one of those rubber couplers just looks incredibly cheesy to me.
Money Mustache December 27, , pm. I think the rubber boots with built-in metal clamps and a stainless steel corrugated reinforcing sleeve are the way to go. I think they look pretty nice — and you only need one in theory, where you join the final drain from your whole house, into the output to the street.. Kendall Frederick December 28, , pm. Those are interesting.. I had never heard of them. Just did some Googling. I will keep it in mind, at least for the half bath addition if that becomes part of the plan.
Thanks for the advice! Trish Boyce December 29, , pm. My husband shares my lack of skill. We just had to have someone reinstall 2 windows we tried to do ourselves. Jessica January 30, , am. I know this is hella late but I know how you feel. Look into low cost and free homeowner workshops in your area. Where I live, several nonprofits offer tutorials on light wiring and light plumbing as well as things like laying flooring, repairing cabinets, etc. I find I learn better hands on and it gives me an opportunity to practice a bit with the tools and a starting point for evaluating the many often conflicting tutorials on the web.
I just installed a mat for heated flooring and tiled over it and textured the bathroom wall….. Also, some areas may have a tool library where you can borrow tools….. Jeff Gibson January 23, , pm. Do you just inset the drain lower than the tile and even with the barrier? Money Mustache January 23, , pm. The key to this method is the 2-piece drain. The lower part gets embedded into the concrete, perfectly flush see my second sketch.
Then when that hardens, you Redguard all over everything, right over the edge of the lower part of the shower drain. Then you screw in the drain top, tile and grout everything flush with the top of the upper section, and seal it.
Tiling a Bathroom
If water goes through the grout, it runs down the Redguard and over the lower drain flange, down the drain. Evan March 25, , pm. In terms of the adjustable drain, all I can find at the local stores is a three piece setup with the base, a screw down collar normally used to seal down the liner to the base, and the adjustable drain.
Using your method do you just not use the collar piece to allow any water that gets through the tile or grout to drain down the weep holes? I assume this is the case but just want to be sure. Here is a link to the common type of dain I seem to find at the local hardware store. PuckSR April 21, , pm. Ever figure this out?
I am in the same spot. Money Mustache June 6, , pm. Yeah, with those 3-piece dealies you can discard the middle section with the bolts since there is no rubber that needs clamping in this case. So you just have the bottom with threads, and the top part with the drain grille that threads into it. Ben November 12, , pm. MMM- This is the comment I wanted to reply to: What drain exactly are you using, could you link to one? I searched, but have only found others some even mentioning your method looking for the same answer.
As the previous comments mentioned, the following two methods is what I am finding:. Money Mustache November 12, , pm. Basically, you can make any drain with 2 or 3 pieces work. Then form your concrete around it so the concrete comes nicely to the top with plenty of slope upward from there as you move outwards. Then let that concrete cure, and add your Redguard, over all the concrete and extending right over the edge of the plastic. Then screw on the drain lid to the lowest position or whatever matches your tiles. Tile around it.
I do similar way with few diferences The key of prevention of crax is to enforce framing. In shower area put extra 2x4s sideway to existingn use construction glue and decking screws. And ya get extra support for cement board. Ya need to put something on the bottom plywood and wertical wood to prevent direct connections concrete-wood. Floor oil paint is fine, 6 mil plastic run from behind cement board on the floor plywood is great.
Reinforce concrete with rebars and mesh. Put mortar additive to concrete and very top layer of concrete put some layer of mortar.
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I dont put drain into center. This allow me do one way slope with large tiles whhat is best waterproofing- minimize grout.
Granada Tile: Sensational Cement Tiles
Am little bit progresive so I use linear shower drain. I make it home since they are expensive from plastic and fiberglass. Copy Laticrete linear drain because has flashings. Others are not so good in my view. If you know welder yo can make from anticorosive tubing as the best. Yes, do not even look at expensive stuff membranes as Schulter etc.
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Ya not build water tank. There is no pressure on walls. Moustage man is doing my way. I buy one galon waterproofing membrane, in this case Red Guard, and use it for floor and lftover on walls. Overlaping- something how masons lay brix- is key of crax prevention. Ladymaier March 15, , am.
Could you instead just frame it out with wood, face it with your hardi-backer, and redguard it with the poured sloped shower base? Why or why not? Hell, how long do you let it cure before removing the form?
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How did you attach it to the plywood sub-floor tape, glue? Do you think red-guard help to protect against this? Or is this the result of crappy builder-grade git-er-done tile work? Since my house might be prone to this, should I consider running the heavy grade vapor barrier up the wall before pouring concrete and troweling on the Redguard?
Bill Abrahms April 14, , pm. Dirk Haagenson April 19, , am. Redguard specifies that the concrete should be fully cured before application. Is there a reason you ignored this? Money Mustache April 21, , pm. Good point! I do try to wait as long as possible given the project schedule, and the curing happens in a decaying exponential pattern — fastest during the initial time, then trailing off over time.
So the difference between day 1 and 2 is much larger than the difference between day 10 and 11, or 27 and Curing also happens faster in high temperature.
But there could be other reasons they put that in the directions anyone? Mike Peterson July 15, , am. I am thinking of forming a shower pan under a claw foot style tub.